Pepper
A warm-season nightshade that produces from midsummer through frost. Sweet or hot, peppers are among the most versatile crops in the garden and store exceptionally well.
At a Glance
Season
Warm Season
Planting
Transplant
Days to Harvest
70–90 days from transplant
Difficulty
Moderate
Also Known As
capsicum, bell pepper, chili pepper
Summary
Peppers need a long, warm season — start indoors 8–10 weeks before last frost and don't rush transplanting. They produce slowly at first, then heavily from midsummer through frost. Green peppers are unripe fruit; all peppers turn color (red, yellow, orange) if left on the plant. Colored peppers are sweeter and more nutritious but take longer. Harvest green or colored — both are correct.
Growing Conditions
Peppers need warm soil and warm nights to produce well. Soil below 60°F stunts growth; nighttime temperatures below 55°F during flowering cause blossom drop. Full sun is essential. They are more tolerant of heat than tomatoes and continue producing well through hot summers.
Cold climates: Start indoors 8–10 weeks before last frost. Transplant when soil is thoroughly warm and nighttime temperatures are consistently above 55°F — late May to early June in Zone 5. Choose shorter-season varieties for reliable production before first fall frost.
Warm climates: Long season allows full colored-pepper production without rushing. Start indoors and transplant after last frost.
Sowing & Planting
Start seeds at 80°F–85°F for reliable germination — peppers are slow to germinate in cool conditions. Transplant at 8–10 weeks old, 18–24 inches apart. Harden off thoroughly. Like eggplant, pinching the first flower bud encourages establishment before fruiting.
Care & Maintenance
Water consistently — 1–1.5 inches per week. Irregular watering causes blossom end rot. Mulch to retain moisture and moderate soil temperature. Feed with balanced fertilizer at planting and again when flowering begins. Avoid excess nitrogen late in the season — it promotes foliage over fruit. Stake larger varieties.
Common Problems
Blossom drop in cool nights or extreme heat — a temperature issue, not a pest. Blossom end rot (dark, sunken spot at fruit base) from calcium deficiency caused by irregular watering — water consistently. Aphids cluster on new growth — knock off with water or treat with insecticidal soap. Sunscald — white, papery patches on fruit exposed to intense sun — more common after excessive leaf removal.
Harvest
Harvest sweet peppers green (immature) or colored (ripe). Green peppers are firm and slightly bitter; fully ripe peppers are sweeter and more nutritious. All peppers start green and change to their mature color — red, yellow, orange, or brown depending on variety. Harvest hot peppers at the size and color indicated for the variety. Cut with scissors or pruning shears; pulling can damage plants. Regular harvesting keeps plants producing.
Varieties
Sweet bell peppers (California Wonder, King of the North for short seasons) produce the large blocky fruit familiar from grocery stores. Frying peppers (Jimmy Nardello, Lipstick) are thinner-walled, sweeter, and earlier than bells. Hot peppers range from mildly spicy (Anaheim, Poblano) to moderate (Jalapeño, Serrano) to very hot (Cayenne, Thai, Habanero). For Zone 5, choose varieties with 70–75 days to maturity for reliable colored-pepper production before frost.
Companion Planting
Grows Well With
- tomatoes
- basil
- carrots
- eggplant
Keep Away From
- fennel
- kohlrabi
Uses & Preservation
Related Guides
Pepper are a member of the fruiting family.
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